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Earthen Building
for house:
Selecting mud:
In our experience we have yet to find a mud we didn’t like—to use in building. We have used rocky, sandy Rocky Mountain mud to dark, sticky Bangkok mud. All that is necessary is that your subsoil has some clay content. Yours may have a bit too much clay or sand and you can adjust for this. There is a wide range of mud that is usable without any adjustments. Here are a few ways to check yours:
Mix some subsoil with water and kneed with your hand until your hand gets good and muddy. Dip in water and bring up without rubbing at all. If you still have mud on your hand, you have enough clay. If your hand comes out clean you have too much sand and need more clay. If your hand comes out real sticky muddy and you have to scrub to get it off, you have too much clay and need to add some sand.
Mix subsoil with water and make to sculpting consistency. Make a thick worm the size of your finger. Hold it out and if it can hold shape you have enough clay. If it is real sticky and does not break when held sideways for a while you may have too much clay.
Soak 1 tablespoon subsoil, one cup of water and one teaspoon salt for a few minutes. The layers in your soil will separate. On the bottom will be rocks and heavy debris. Next will be rough sand, then fine sand. Above that will be clay and then on top silt. From this test you will be able to find the percentage clay you have in your soil. You will need at least 15% clay including silt to make good bricks. More than 50% is too sticky and you will need to add more sand.
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Most commonly used at Pun Pun, this method is a time-tested natural building material dating as far back as 6000 B.C. Builders create adobe homes using blocks made from clay-rich mud (subsoil) and fiber (straw or rice husk in our case), dried and hardened in the sun. The blocks are placed like bricks, using wet adobe mud as mortar.
Benefits:
Thermal mass
Widely available building material
Structurally sound and fire-resistant
Beautiful
Ideal for passive cooling
Fun and easy
Making bricks:
Prepare frame for drying bricks. Any wood will do. If making bricks alone use this frame as you can pick it up yourself:
If two or more people making bricks you can make a longer “ladder-style” design to make more at one time:
Dig up a pit of subsoil you want to use. Fill pit with water and flood mud with water. You will need to let the mud soak depending on the stickiness of your clay. It will cause you more work if it is not soaked long enough.
Barefoot (or with long waterproof boots if you have sharp rocks in the mix) get into the pit. The mud should loosen and break up as you walk on it. If it feels like you are compacting it more, it hasn’t soaked long enough or you have too much clay content.
Stomp and dance in the pit until the mud becomes uniform. It should have enough water that it is easy to mix but is not as runny as slip.
Add rice husks or short straw to the mix. Add until uniform and there is enough that when you pick up a handful, maybe half is fiber. The liquidity should be such that if you stomp and bring your foot back up it should just hold the print before collapsing into itself.
Lay frame on dry, relatively flat surface. Dirt is best as laid on concrete or plastic will increase drying time. Put mixture in buckets and bring to frame. (Ideally your brick-making drying area and your housing site will be close to one another as moving heavy bricks is tiring.) Pour mixture into frame filling all holes and swiping the top level with your hand or a piece of wood. Do Not Make it Beautiful!! The biggest problems people make that slows them from making bricks quickly is worrying about the aesthetics of the top of the brick. No one will see this part anyway and a general level is good enough!
If you’re doing the ladder-style frame get a partner and lift from both sides at the same time. Mix should hold form as brick but slip out easily of form. If the mixture sticks to the frame, it’s probably too dry. Add more water to mix and try it again. If it’s not holding form and the bricks are slumping when you bring form up, they’re a bit too wet and you need to add more fiber or mud.
Move the frame and lay it down next to the last bricks you made and repeat.
Leave to dry for a day and check them again. If they hold form you can flip them up on their skinny side. This will speed drying process.
Allow 7-10 days of good sunny windy days to dry.
Building:
To build you will need bricks and mortar mix.
To make mortar, mix just as you would for bricks except you can make it a bit thinner.
Lay the first layer of bricks on the top of the foundation if
you are using one of straight on the ground if you are not with a layer of mortar under them. When laying mortar, it works well if you smear it on the underlayer in a slight mound running down the center of the bricks. When you lay the next layer of bricks on top of this it will spread out evenly making a suction in the center and spreading to the sides of the bricks without creating more mortar falling off the side when compressed with top brick. You then add a bit of mortar to the butt of the brick you will be butting up against to lock them in sideways.
The most important thing to remember in laying bricks is that they overlap and interlock. You want them to look like this:
And not like this:
Since your bricks will probably not be perfect and the shape of your building may be organic, you will come across places where your bricks start to line up accidentally. Just keep continual watch over it and you can place a half-brick in where you need it to recover the interlocking pattern.
A fast way to build is to build in teams, one person laying the mortar and the other laying the bricks continually over it.
The other important aspect to watch is the lean of the walls in trying to keep them straight. Once the walls get too high for us to be over them building, we choose a side and whatever side we are building from we tend to lean the wall away from us. It is hard to see from that angle. The way to look out for this is to have someone sitting and building from on top of the way looking down on it or to periodically have someone getting on top of the walls and walking them looking down to see where they lean. At this point you can still easily adjust the lean by hitting these bulges in with another brick.
Once you get up to the height you wish for the tops of the walls you can level them using cob and cob in the roof beams onto the top of the adobe walls. Then you can nail the rafters onto the wooden beams.
If you don’t wish to use wood and other materials for the roof and live in a dry climate, you can make an earthen roof by bringing in the bricks one layer at a time slowly closing it off at the top. You can also make a flat earthen roof by laying beams across on the top of the adobe walls and filling in with a straw/clay mix over top.
Cob is another time-tested earthen building technique used primarily in England and other parts of Great Britian. Pieces of “cob” are made by mixing clay-rich mud, long straw fiber, and sand, pressed into each other forming a monolithic structure. The pieces of “cob” dry together into one cob wall instead of drying separately as do adobe bricks.
Benefits:
Good for wet climates where drying adobe bricks would not be feasible
Forms thick strong walls
Can make very organic shapes as are not limited by any form
Great thermal mass
Building:
To make pieces of “cob”:
Make a mud mix similar to the adobe mix described above but with less water to make a thicker consistency. Instead of adding rice husk, add long straw (and maybe sand if your clay is too sticky). Mix with your feet either in a pit or on a tarp. Make the mix thin enough so that you can work with it easily but thick enough so that it still holds shape.
Take out pieces of this mix and make something similar to a small loaf of bread. Kneed this into a foundation already laid. Interlock these cob loaves by laying them in opposite directions for each layer. You can use a dull stick to sew the pieces into one another.
You can only build so far in one day depending on how wet your mix is as to not let the walls slump with holding themselves up. You may be able to build 1-2 feet or up to 1 meter in one day. When you see the wall have a tendency to slump you know you have gone high enough.
Although at Pun Pun we don’t use cob technique in building up whole structures due to the amount of time it takes to build, we use cob often in making benches, furniture, relief sculpture, and as a joint material for putting in windows, doors, sealing on roof beams, sealing open spaces, etc.
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“Wattle-and-cob” is a technique and term coined by folks at Pun Pun experimenting with adaptations to the traditional wattle-and-daub technique. Wattle-and-daub uses a clay-rich mud mix (daub) plastered onto a woven wall (wattle), usually made from small sticks, woven reeds or bamboo. This technique was traditionally used in rice barns and rice mills in Thailand. In other parts of the world homes are traditionally made from this technique.
Wattle-and-cob uses a similar idea yet instead of having a woven sheet as a wall to plaster on we make a spread out woven frame with small sticks or bamboo. To fill in this wall and make a stronger structural wall we make small strips of wet cob and lay and form those around and in the weave.
Benefits:
Fast as you don’t have to wait for sections of the cob wall to dry before building up farther since the weave is holding the mud until is dries.
Easy to do with limited labor resources
Good for wet climates where drying bricks is not feasible
Good for raised buildings (on stilts) since the weight of the walls is not as thick as adobe or cob
Can make walls as thin or thick as you want
To Build:
This technique will not be a load-bearing structure so you can make basic post and beam structure to support your roof. In between the beams connect pieces of branches of wood or bamboo. Connect these horizontally and vertically creating a weave with approximately 6 inch x 6 inch holes in between.
Make a mud mix by digging up subsoil or buying subsoil depending on your site considerations appropriate for building (see above for selecting mud). Soak broken up mud with water covering mud. Mix mud with feet until becomes a smooth consistency and most clumps are out. If it is difficult to get out clumps you may need to soak your mud longer. Add enough water to make it thicker than a slip mix but runny enough to work with easily. Mix will be similar to adobe mix but without the rice husk.
Take long pieces of straw and cover then with the mud mixture. It is important that every piece of straw is thoroughly covered in mud. You can either do this with your hands rubbing the straw back and forth and wiping it with mud or by putting them in the mud pit and dancing on them. When you pull them out of the pit swipe them to remove access mud so they are covered and wet but not extra heavy.
Wrap these strips around the frame you already have in place. You can wrap around pillars and over and down horizontal pieces until they meet the piece below it. It is best to work down to up. At this point is where you decide the thickness you prefer for the walls.
You can build up as much as you wish in one day. Even if it seems unstable, once the mud dries the earthen structure will be what gives strength to the wall, not the frame you made originally.
Plaster and paint as you would any earthen wall.
Earthbag construction was started in the USA more recently than the other techniques mentioned above. Polypropylene bags are filled with slightly moistened dirt and tamped into place arranged into an overlapping pattern. For walls rows are sometimes secured with barbed wire. Plaster protects the bags from the elements.
Benefits:
Easy to learn
Inexpensive materials
Good for places where your soil may not be appropriate for other types of earthen buiding
Good for domes and other curved structures
Building:
We don’t use earthbag construction for whole walls at Pun Pun because with adobe we don’t need to buy any materials but we can see the benefits of using earthbag in certain applications and areas. It can be especially beneficial in desert areas of places with insufficient adobe mud. We use it often for making benches, sitting spaces, furniture, etc. It works well because making the amount of brick you would want for a bench can be a lot and cob has to take time to dry whereas earthbag can be done quickly in one day and fills a large amount of mass.
Dig up a pit of dirt (does not need to be clay-rich but helps if it is) and add a bit of water to moisten the mix but only to make it moist, not wet. It should just hold a form if squeezed into a ball. If too wet, will take too long to dry.
Dump into a polypropylene bag (usually old feed or manure bags) that is set up in place where you want to place it for the wall. (Earthbags can be used as foundations in places where you do not have to worry about a termite barrier).
Fill until about 2/3 to 3/4 full where you have enough room to fold over the top of the bag and no dirt will fall out. Fold over the top as tight as you can and tip over and into place in wall. Stomp on it first to let the dirt expand out.
Continue with the next bag up next to where the last one was laid. If you come to a place where there is a end to your wall, turn in the bag so the folded side will fold inward. This will make it more stable as the weight will press it into the next brick instead of out on the fold.
When you finish your first layer, tamp with a heavy object. We use a large wood stump (with no sharp edges which can bust the bag open) with two smaller wood branches attached to the sides. Some people make tampers from concrete as well. The idea is that if you use moist soil and tamp it hard, once it dries it will act much like one large brick. I still will have the bag around it as you do not take them off and you plaster over them to protect them but the dirt itself holds its own form. It is still important to protect the bags, however, since polypropylene if exposed to the sun rays disintegrates quickly.
If you are simply making a bench or furniture you can set the next layer just on top of the last. If you are building it up as a wall you probably want to add barbed wire between rows to link them together as you do not use a mortar in this kind of building.
Every layer should interlock just as you would with bricks to eliminate break lines.
To plaster on bags:
Some people use chicken wire and you may need to for walls. We use a thick clay-rich mud/straw mix such as the one in the wattle-and-cob recipe above directly onto the bags. It is important that this is thick especially on furniture in places where the edges will get a lot of wear and that they are interlocked pieces of wattle-cob as to not chip off with extended use, exposing bags underneath. Then can plaster over this as you would any earthen wall.
Earthen Plasters/Relief Sculpture:
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There is a general mix for plasters I will display here. This can be put on any earthen surface whether that be adobe, cob, earthbag with an initial layer, and wattle-and-cob.
There are various looks that can be achieved with plasters from allowing natural undulations in the walls to smooth trowel look to fibrous materials as well. You can also do varying degrees of layers of plaster for the look you desire. Some plasters will be covered with natural paints and some may not or just sealed leaving the look and color of the plaster present.
Depending on the amount of undulations in your wall and the look you want will determine how many layers of plaster you use.
We use a sandier mix for plasters than you would for adobe, wattle-and-cob or cob. This will help to reduce cracking as it is not as thick of a layer as the materials are when you are using them to build with.
If you have a wall with many undulations you want to fill you’ll want to start out with a first plaster to just make the walls level. This should be a sandier mix with fiber (rice husk or short straw) in it as well. It needs fiber to stop major cracking because it will be thicker in certain spots where you are filling in undulations. This layer can be hand-plastered or troweled on depending on what look you prefer.
If you want a fibrous look add more short straw and when the plaster has dried a bit, use a wet sponge to wash off and expose straw fibers.
After this layer dries you can do a second finer layer. You will probably still get cracks in your first layer (how much depends on what kind of mud you used). It is good to let all cracking happen before applying the second coat. This second layer will work to fill in all of those cracks and do final smoothing where necessary.
To make this mix sift some sandy mud. If you do not have sandy mud you can add sand to a mud you have been using. One easy way to do it is to fill a wheelbarrow up with water. Dump the sandy mud onto a plastic flexible screen and dip in the water, moving back and forth until all is through except bigger pieces. Your mix should be so sandy that it can go through the screen with no need to squeeze and kneed clay through. Let this mixture sit overnight or for a few hrs. The mixture will settle to the bottom and the water will sit on top. You can then pour most of the water off the top leaving the mix quite wet. It will be quite similar to a slip mixture.
Apply this very wet to the walls rubbing it into the cracks and unsmooth places on the wall.
You can also use various materials to wet and smooth the walls when the plaster is still pliable but stuck and quite dry onto the wall such as foam sponges, yogurt lids, or feed bags. These all will give a bit of a different finish.
If you are going to apply a finish or earthen paint to the wall, allow the wall to dry completely before applying. If the plaster is not completely dry it can create discoloring in the final paint.
For plastering an adobe brick look:
If you want to be able to see the adobe bricks of the wall but want them to look more finished, start by cleaning them up a bit. You can do this by chipping off any extra pieces of mortar and redefining the inset lines between bricks. Then apply the second coat of sifted plaster to smooth the bricks.
For plastering on straw-bale:
We used three coats on the straw-bales for a final plaster. The first layer was just dug up clay-rich dirt in the area (we had to dig up dirt for the foundation so used this for making adobe interior walls and interior and exterior straw-bale plaster). The mud was full of rocks and such but that didn’t bother us because the purpose of this layer was just to get something sticking to the straw-bale, not to make a smooth finish. We applied it quite wet but not as wet as a slip. After that dried we applied a second layer which was the same mixture but also mixed with short straw. This layer was troweled on and the intention was to smooth undulations. We let this layer dry and then added the third layer which is described as the second layer above. This was the only sifted mixture and was sandy mud with no fiber.
Relief sculpture:
The plastering stage is the time to add in any relief sculpture you may want to include. This is also a good time to add niches or other aspects that will indent on the walls.
For indenting spaces simply chip away at it with a machete. You can then use a plaster t o smooth over parts that are rough and shape more with that.
To add relief you use a very similar mixture to the wattle-and-cob mix. Dip pieces of long straw in a clay-rich mud mix until they are fully coated. Then wet the wall where you want to add them onto and push the clay-straw onto the wall with a bit extra mud to help to lock it onto the wall. Add piece by piece to the thickness you desire. If your piece will come out quite far the clay-straw may become a bit too heavy to hold itself. If you have time you can let it dry in between courses and keep adding on more pieces a bit at a time. If you want it to go quicker you can insert small pieces of sticks or bamboo into the wall and braced into the clay-straw. This will provide the structure it needs until it dries when the clay-straw will provide structural strength.
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Choosing the kind of paint or finish you want to use will depend on where it will be used (interior or exterior), what materials you have access to, and what look you prefer. Paints/finishes provide durability, reduce dusting of clay, and color.
In general there are varying degrees of durability different finishes will provide. I will explain the different finishes we have experimented with in order of durability:
Plaster
You can choose to just leave your walls as an earthen plaster with no finish. Walls when rubbed up against will dust but it not exposed to weather conditions should hold up okay.
Animal Dung
Using animal dung mixed with clay in finishes is a traditional practice in many parts of the world. The dung hardens the mix and provides extra durability. Fresh dung can be used or older dung soaked in water first.
Starch Clay Paint
We recommend this kind of paint for most all interior walls. It is an easy, cheap, beautiful, mousse-like textured paint which is lovely to work with. At least for our area which has severe monsoon rains we do not recommend it for an exterior paint alone as tends to chip off when exposed to water.
For this paint what is needed is a pigment providing color, fillers that determine opacity and coverage, and some type of binder or glue that helps it to adhere to the wall. The only thing to find out is what ingredients you will use for these purposes.
Examples of pigments include using color from sifted natural clay present in your area or elsewhere, natural dyes, or powdered bought pigments. Fillers include sifted fine sand, mica flakes or dust, silica, or chalk dust. Binders or glues can be made from any kind of starch flour- rice, wheat, tapioca, rye, or potato.
We use in general sifted local clay for pigment, very fine sifted sand for filler (should be so fine it is like dust. Larger grains do not stick to the wall in our experience), and tapioca flour for our binder. These are the materials that are most easily accessible and cheapest for us but this would be different for wherever you live.
To make paint:
For making starch paste (binder):
1 part starch flour
1 part cool water
13 parts
For mixing binder, filler, and pigment:
1 part powered or wet sifted clay (pigment)
1 part filler
(small amount of finely chopped straw for effect optional)
binder – amount dependent on ingredients chosen
In a bowl, mix flour and cold water. Meanwhile, in a large pot, bring water to a boil. When it comes to a boil, slowly add the starch/cool water mixture while constantly stirring mixture. Mixture will become thicker and translucent instead of transparent. You can take the spoon out and feel the texture. If sticky or feels like mucus, it is ready. Take off the heat and let cool a bit. We make our mix quite thin but you can make it thicker and then add more water to the final paint if necessary.
If you like the color of your final earthen plaster and just wish to keep that original color but make it more durable and reduce dusting, you can simply apply this starch paste onto the top of your earthen walls.
If you are using colored clay for your pigment sift it first (can be done wet and squeezed through a plastic screen or can be done dry with a screen). Sift your filler as well if it has larger particles.
Mix together your pigment and filler dry. You can do the 1 : 1 ratio recommended above or add more filler if you choose. By adding more filler you are sure to not have any cracking but we’d recommend at least 1 part filler to 1 part clay.
Take out a small amount that you can keep to use for touch-ups later. This has to be done now because once you add the starch paste, the paint can spoil and you will not be able to keep this paint but if you keep a dry mix you can always add more starch paste and use to make touch-ups to your wall later if needed.
Pour in the starch paste a little at a time mixing it in with the pigment/filler mix. We do not have a recipe for how much of this binder to add because in my experience, it depends on what other materials you are using and the consistency you prefer.
If I am using pure sticky clay for the pigment, I need to add water in addition to the binder. This is because if I only add the binder, it becomes too sticky and clumps not creating a smooth mix. If I were to add too much water, it would become too thin and without enough stickiness. This you will need to get a feel of. If we use clay from our local area which we sift ourselves it is not as pure and not as sticky. For this recipe we can just add as much binder as we wish to get to the desired consistency but do not have to add water and it turns out well.
We prefer our paint quite thin to the point where it drips when you apply. For this purpose, start to paint from the top down as to not drip on what you just finished. You can use a brush or your hands. To smooth over texture, use a damp sponge or clean damp brush. If you added mica flakes or straw, reveal them by using a clean damp sponge when the paint is still moist but hard.
Use within a few days as will start to separate and loose binding power. Can be refrigerated and will last longer that way.
Lime
Lime plasters and paints have been used for ages in many parts of the world as seen in the white finishes of thatched houses in Ireland, domes in Greece, churches of New Mexico, and skyscrapers of Yemen. Lime provides an extra layer of protection from water damage as well as reflects the sun in hot climates.
There are various books you can get on perfecting the art of applying lime plasters. We have mostly experimented a bit with lime washes here. We have found it to be pretty water resistant and durable in exposed areas.
The kind we can get here in Thailand has not been soaked yet so we need to soak it first and the longer the better. You may be able to get lime that has already been soaked and is ready to use. Lime is available at building supply stores.
We then take the lime that has been soaking and strain it out. We then let it sit for a bit until it settles. The lime water (water on top) is then used to splash on the wall. This will wet the wall and help it to attach to the wall. After this we apply lime with a brush or with hands (always wear gloves as it is corrosive to skin) to the wall. The most important thing is that it is put on very wet (like water) and in thin layers. You can come back to apply more layers for color consistency but if you put on thick layers all at once it will crack.
You can add sand, clay, or pigments to the lime for different shades. Most will all stay light as the lime makes them more pastelly.
Linseed oil
For extra protection on exterior walls and for hardening and durability of floors, linseed oil can be applied over your earthen plaster. Linseed oil is made from flaxseeds and helps to make earthen finishes more water resistant and harder.
For an outdoor wall simply paint on the linseed oil to the earthen plaster or paint with a brush. It will darken the color which will lighten a bit when dried but will stay appreciably darker than the original color of your plaster/paint.
For earthen floors apply linseed oil as a final sealant on your final layer of flooring. It is best to apply before the mud is dry and apply many layers, thinning with mineral spirits with each layer. This will leave your floor hard and water-resistant but you will need a layer of wax in order to make it mopable.
The linseed oil we have access to getting in Thailand presently is very diluted with turpentine degrading the quality quite severely. It has still proven a good sealant for walls (even walls with no roofing) and helps on earthen floors but does not give nearly the quality 100% linseed oil can achieve.
For more information on earthen floors a good resource is Athen and Bill Steen’s short book, “Earthen Floors”.
Linseed and beeswax
For walls that are exposed to more extreme weather conditions, a mix of linseed and beeswax may be desirable. We have experimented with this on the bottom exterior of a straw-bale house in a cold climate where snow can build up against the house. Simply melt down the beeswax and add at least 2 parts linseed to 1 part beeswax. The linseed will help dilute it to dry thinner on the wall. It is best to apply while very warm to it is good to continually keep the mixture on coals and reheat your container as you go. This mix is waterproof.
Because diluted linseed oil available in Thailand makes it so when mixed with beeswax, it has a difficult time drying and becomes sticky for quite a long time. Eventually it will dry and absorb into the wall but we found it better used on walls than floors or other surfaces you need to be in contact with.
Resin
In Thailand there is a kind of tree sap/resin used by fishermen/women to fix their boats. It is so sticky that it can seal holes. This can also be used as a sealant on highly exposed areas. We have used it primarily on outdoor benches and it has held up well.
You can buy the sap in a powder form (called “Chan” in Thai). Then mix 1 part to at least 5 parts pine oil. This mixture will be super-sticky so it is good to use gloves as it is hard to get off of your hands. Experiment with the proportions but you want it as thin as you can where you still have some sap in it. If the sap proportion is too high it will go on too thick and will be difficult to dry. It has a tendency to melt when exposed to the sun so takes an awful long time to dry in exposed areas if put on too thick.
Rubber and sand
The newest material we have been experimenting with is using natural rubber (grown in Southern Thailand and easily available here) which has been mixed with Ammonium Chloride to keep it from solidifying and a filler/pigment for an outdoor paint or earthen floor sealant. A Thai man who attended one of our workshops and has now continued on to start his own earthen building business in the South of Thailand has been using it in his projects with great success. He claims it can be completely water repellent and gets stronger with more exposure to water and other elements.
We are new to trying it out but we like how you are able to keep color consistency and apply it like a paint allowing you to use whatever color you choose, instead of darkening walls as linseed oil does.
To make:
Mix 1 part natural rubber (while it is still malleable before made into sheets) and 1 part Ammonium Chloride (we’re not sure about this recipe as the man who made it brought us a big oil drum of it and that’s what he said he mixed but we haven’t yet mixed this part of the recipe ourselves).
Mix 1 part natural rubber/Ammonium Chloride mix with 1 part water. Mix the water in slowly while continually mixing the rubber mix as it will prevent clumps. If you dump all the water in at once it will clump and be hard to get out.
Mix 1 part rubber/Ammonium Chloride/water with as much as you want of filler/pigment (sifted sand with or without sifted clay in our case). We add usually about ….
Use a brush to apply as can be quite drippy. You can also make thicker by adding more rubber and it will then fill in cracks very well. For earthen floors add a thinner layer first to fill in dust and some cracks and then a thicker layer on top of that for strengthening.
- Copyright - Pun Pun Thailand Group - 2008 -